Shoe



g- 3, 1939- B. ALLEN, JR 2,168,948

SHOE

Filed Jan. 12, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 1939. B. ALLEN, JR 2,168,948

SHOE

Filed Jan. 12, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 MMW Z Patented Aug. 8, 1939 UNITEDSTATES PATENT OFFICE 3 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in boots, shoes and the like, theparticular purpose in mind for the use of the boot being that bysportsmen. Foot-wear now marketed for this purpose is customarily veryheavy because of the rough use to which it is subjected. It has beenfound that a sportsmans boot can be made rugged and yet notuncomfortably heavy, and

7' one contribution toward that end comprises the instant improvement towhat is generally termed the toe construction.

This construction eliminates all cross seams and projections which wouldresult in internal ridges to press against and injure the foot of 5 thewearer. The toe construction and seaming are such as to produce what isconveniently termed a moccasin toe. With this preamble in mind,attention is directed to the invention, the specific objects of whichare as follows:

First, to provide a boot or shoe especially adapted to sportsmen, towhich end the tee is of a moccasin (or imitation moccasin) construction,with the particular advantages of protecting the main seam from briars,sharp stones 5 and the like, and making the seam as nearly waterproof aspossible.

Second, to provide a boot wherein the toepiece and vamp are put togetherwith two rows of stitching, thus producing a double rip-proof 30construction.

Third, to produce a pronounced bead in the foregoing construction, sothat the main seam is overhung by the bead to ward off briars and stoneswhich might injure or out said seam.

Fourth, to carry out the steps of an improved method according to whichthe toe-piece and vamp parts are initially stitched, cemented, formedand finally stitched to produce the con struction previously described.

Other objects and advantages will appear in the following specification,reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a portion of the boot, particularlyillustrating the toe con- 45 struction.

Figure 2 is a cross section taken on the line 22 of Fig. 1.

Figure 3 is an enlarged sectional view particularly illustrating themerits of the seam con- 50 struction.

Figure 4 is a plan view of the vamp.

Figure 5 is a plan view of the toe-piece.

Figure 6 is a cross section taken on the line 6-6 of Fig. 4.

Figure '7 is a cross section taken on the line 1-4 of Fig. 5, saidFigures 4, 5, 6 and '7 illustrating the first step of making the toeconstruction.

Figure 8 is a plan View illustrating the second step of making the toeconstruction wherein the 5 toe piece and vamp are initially sewedtogether with fine stitching.

Figure 9 is a section taken on the line 9-9 of Fig. 8.

Figure 10 is a sectional perspective view illusl0 trating the third stepof making the toe construction, wherein the cementing and forming aredone.

Figure 11 is a cross section illustrating the fourth step of making thetoe construction 15 wherein the heavy stitching is put in.

In carrying out the invention the boot I (Fig.

l) is shown as comprising the top 2 (only partially shown), lacing 3,sole 4, welt 5 and toe construction 6. The latter term is chosen merelyas a matter of convenience to designate that part of the boot in whichthe particular improvement is embodied.

Said toe construction comprises a vamp I and a toe-piece 8. The vamp Ihas wings 9 (Fig. 4) extending well along the sides ID of the boot and,actually, terminate at the heels where their extremities are covered andsewed under an upright heel piece or guard.

But reverting to the vamp I and toe-piece 8 it is to be particularlynoted in Fig. 3 that the margins II and I2 respectively of the vamp Iand toe-piece 8 are overlapped at I3 for a considerable distance. Inthis particular locality there is a triple seam construction which in- 5cludes the overlapping margin and the body piece I4 adjacent to the vampmargin II. The margins II, I2 are secured by relatively fine stitchingI5, whereas the triple seam construction is secured by heavy stitchingI6.

When this stitching is put in its location is so chosen that thepressure incidental to the insertion of the stitches produces apronounced bead I'I. At a time before the stitching I6 is put in theinternal surfaces are covered with cement I8. This coating of cement isput on the bead in order to hold it together until it has been sewed.The margins II, I2 and the body piece I4 stand substantiallyperpendicular to the vamp and toepiece, as the case may be, the coveringof the margin I2 by the margin II and the inward lapping of the latteravoiding the exposure of the margin on the outside of the vamp. Thus,the seam construction is made as nearly waterproof as possible.

Another and most important efiect of the bead I1 is that its sides 2|bulge out beyond the ends 22 of the heavy stitching IS. The degree ofprotection thus afforded is roughly designated by the clearance lines23. The advantage thus obtained is a definite housing of the exposedparts or ends of the stitching I6 within the limits of the bead IT. Thelatter extends beyond the ends of the stitching l6, sheltering it tosuch an extent that the encountering of the boot with briars 24, sharpstones, fence rails and the like will not ordinarily injure and cut themain stitches. This is regarded as important because by thus guardingthe main heavy stitches Hi the life of the boot is prolonged to a fargreater degree than that of any shoe of common construction.

The method of making the boot can almost be understood from theforegoing consideration of Fig. 3, but in order to bring out the varioussteps, attention is directed to Figs. 4 to 11. The vamp 1 comprises anarched piece of leather which has an internally arched flange 25. Thenether surface of this arch and of the wings 9 is skived at 26 (Fig. 6).The toe-piece 8 is similarly skived at 2'! on its nether surface. Theskiving is done in such a way as to leave square edges 28 in eachinstance. This constitutes a better construction than if the marginswere skived out to feather edges.

After the toe-piece and vamp are cut to the forms indicated, the secondstep is carried out by assembling them (Fig. 8) and initially securingthem with the line of fine stitching I previously mentioned. In thisassemblage the top surface of the toe-piece 8 is laid against the skivednether surface of the vamp T (Fig. 9). The stitching I5 is then put inas stated.

The third step (Fig. 10) comprises the addition of the cement l8 and theforming of the seam construction into the upstanding rib 29. When thisrib is stitched with the heavy lock stitch seam IE, it is transformedinto the bead I! already described in conjunction with Fig. 3.

I claim:

1. In an article of footwear, a toe construction comprising a vamp and atoe-piece, said toe-piece having a margin standing substantiallyperpendicular thereto, said vamp also having a margin standingsubstantially perpendicular thereto and being turned over the edge ofthe toe-piece margin to overlap the later toward the inside of thetoe-piece, thereby enclosing the margin of the toe piece, and avoidingexposure of the joint between said margins, and stitches driven throughsaid toe-piece and vamp margins and through the overlap of the latter.

2. In an article of foot-wear, a toe construction comprising a vamp anda toe-piece, said toe-piece having a margin standing substantiallyperpendicular thereto, said vamp also having a margin standingsubstantially perpendicular thereto and being turned over the edge ofthe toe-piece margin to overlap the latter toward the inside of thetoe-piece, thereby enclosing the margin of the toe-piece, andterminating in a portion lying parallel with and upon said toe-piece,thus avoiding all outside exposure of the toe-piece margin, stitchesdriven medially through said toe-piece and vamp margins and through theoverlap of the latter, and other stitches driven through the terminalportion of the overlapping margin and a portion of the toe-piece margin.

3. In an article of foot-wear, a toe construction comprising a vamp anda toe-piece, said toepiece having a margin standing substantiallyperpendicular thereto, said vamp also having a margin standingsubstantially perpendicular thereto and being turned over the edge ofthe toe-piece margin to overlap the latter toward the inside of thetoe-piece, thereby enclosing the margin of the toe-piece, and avoidingexposure of the joint between said margins, and stitches driven throughsaid toe-piece and vamp margins and through the overlap of the latter,that portion of the vamp margin turned over the edge of the toe-piecemargin being bulged at its sides to extend beyond the contiguous ends ofthe stitches thereby to protect said exposed ends.

BONA ALLEN, JR.

